Category Archives: Travel

My vegan weekend in Seoul

Being vegan in Korea isn’t easy. Even kim chi contains some fish. The request for “no meat” is literally translated into “no beef.” The correct way to request things would be then to ask for “no beef, no fish, no pork, no chicken.” And to further clarify, “vegetables only.” Even then, there may be a sauce laced with fish or some non-vegan element.

I had a vegan visitor for the weekend. It isn’t impossible to be vegan in Seoul, but it takes some work (and a number of trips to Itaewon, the foreigner neighborhood). Continue reading My vegan weekend in Seoul

Halloween in Seoul

Seoul is an alcoholic city, and as Friday and Saturday roll around, people get lit! Halloween ups the ante.

It started as a tradition in Itaewon, the foreigner area where the American military base is located, and has started to spread as Korea has opened up more to Western influence.

We started out in Itaewon, where there was a mix of foreigners and Koreans. Most of the bars were ready for the evening, with bartenders and patrons dressed up alike and the bars festooned to a level that even NYC bars do not get to. In some cases, I wondered how many 10s of Gs were required for the decorations.

We then jumped into a cab to Hongdae, a more Korean-centric party area. The crowds, the costumes, the density of people were even greater. Korea knows how to party!

Halloween Seoul

 

Snippets of Seoul

A few months ago, I saw London go from summer to fall. It happened in a day. I was sitting in my favorite coffee shop wearing a romper from Bali and flip flops shivering in recognition. Today, I’m in Seoul. It felt like early fall and t-shirt weather yesterday. Today, a chill has come and sunken the city down a few spinal layers. I’m feeling not just fall but DEEP fall and the start of winter approaching. It’s cold and rainy, and I’m wearing a ridiculous fox sweatshirt that my friend Lux called my midlife crisis sweatshirt. I don’t really know what that means.

My time in Seoul has been social but quieter, with room for introspection and good 1:1 conversations. I’ve gotten to know people better. I’ve appreciated the lack of defined schedule and the time to process. I started making videos of myself giving myself advice every time I have a major realization. Continue reading Snippets of Seoul

All glowsticks, Club Octagon

I’ve been trying to lead a monastic existence in Seoul of all places. The week passed with me mostly sitting in cafes or doing yoga and snacking at “home.”

Friday night arrived, and we decided to go out “Gangnam style.” Twelve of us gathered at a 5-story restaurant for shared tapas, which I had planned. Going into it, I knew it would end up being a bit chaotic given the number and mix of people. My new resolution is to not go out to dinner with more than 6-7 people max! The bill, the sharing, the conversation become tricky immediately as people are spread across a long table.

Sad and yet somewhat comically, everyone ended up getting so angry over the service. I don’t quite understand this, as there are so many things to get angry about in this world. It may be true that life seeps out through the tiny cracks in our existence – the minor inconveniences – vs. the big ones. Continue reading All glowsticks, Club Octagon

Nomad life in Seoul

Yesterday was a string of cafes. Slack messages were incoming gathering our disparate group of “digital nomads” together for cafe exploring while working. There was Cafe Kkrumer (Here Comes That Dreamer), where we worked on bean bags on the roof before moving to the outdoor patio. We then walked to a library cafe chock full of people but no coffee.

We walked around Hapjeong to Hongdae. Then dinner at a place called Ugly Stove, where we had brunch that wasn’t even real brunch. We had gotten so used to family style that even though we all ordered separately, we instinctively shared the dishes. The night was spent milling around the street food of Myeongdong.

Street food

Along the way, we talked a fair bit about nomadism. There’s a digital nomad conference happening in Bangkok next week. I commented that I was curious about it, but it probably didn’t suit me very well considering that I’m not really a digital nomad. Continue reading Nomad life in Seoul

A look back: My final week in Jeju

My time in tiny Jeju island off the coast of Korea was extremely good – emotional in many respects, overly stimulating at times – but an experience I will always value.

I unearthed some Korean language skills, saw some beautiful sights, made many new like-minded friends, had a love story, drank a bit too much. In this journey I’m on, it’s enriching to meet people who think or see the world in a similar way.

Some things I will miss: Continue reading A look back: My final week in Jeju

Supermoon Sunday

A supermoon is the coincidence of a full moon with the closest approach the moon makes to the Earth on its elliptical orbit. The technical name is the perigee-syzygy of the Earth-Moon-Sun system.

The full moon was 222,365 miles from Earth on Sunday at it shone overhead, so big and close and orange. That is 16% larger than average and almost 30% larger than the year’s smallest full moon. It reminded me of Smiling Buddha in Bali and the culture of measuring life in moon cycles.

It was my last day on Jeju Island. I woke up and did my daily ashtanga routine in unfamiliar surroundings. I was quiet within myself. We ate spicy kimchi fried rice for breakfast on the worn wooden floor on top of a folded blanket next to the yoga mat. There was an spoken and perhaps surreal, unknown finality to the start of the day. The alcohol drained from our system and pores, and life was real with a tinge of sad. Continue reading Supermoon Sunday

Week 3 on Jeju island

  1. My daily ashtanga practice

Yoga in Seogwipo

2. Famous Jeju Stones

Friend visiting and Jeju Stones

3. Jungmun beauty on a rainy day during rainy seasonimg_1630

4. Naked Korean sauna day at Sanbangsan (not coed in the naked part)img_1637

5. Hiking parts of the beautiful Olle trails that encircle the islandimg_1638

6. The beautiful beaches, so many pretty onesimg_1660

7. YOimg_1676

8. Intro to Node programming courseimg_1692

9. Bing-su gatheringimg_1708

10. Nature near Seogwipoimg_1752

11. Me doing what I do best (eating)img_1758

Typhoon morning

Last night, the wind was howling. The hotel was swaying ever so slightly. There was a typhoon overhead. Many of my Hacker Paradise mates were over at the other hotel, gathered to play Cards Against Humanity and drink.

I had devoured some “beef on the rice” in my room, splayed on my bed, chopsticks bobbing between kim chi containers, dyed yellow tart radishes, and my beef bowl. Then I went on a snack run to 7/11 and devoured my purchases.

Then, there was little else to do except waffle around. Continue reading Typhoon morning

Relationships with expiration dates

Over the past 2 years, I have (finally) been learning lessons of detachment, particularly in my romantic life. I wonder if it’s a good thing or not. It’s likely not obvious to most people, even those who know me well, but I possess a (hidden) deeply romantic streak. And I get into relationships easily.

In high school, I experienced love-at-first-sight. When we ended up together years later, I cried in an outpouring of emotion, scaring the crap out of him. Freshman year of college, I began what I would have never realized would be an 11-year relationship. I had my first real date at the age of 30. My first OKCupid date turned into a 9-month relationship! And so the story goes on. Perhaps it’s the Korean cultural influence. We are known for our ongoing tele-dramas, and the streets of Seoul are apparently lined with googly-eyed couples staring deeply into each others’ eyes, by one account.

I’ve always had a hard time letting go of people. My attachment circle is forever growing and rarely pruned, though like for most normal people, there are periods of intensification in certain areas.

People have told me I trust too easily. I let everyone in. I’m overly inclusive to a fault. Ever since I was a child, I always included everyone, particularly those who seemed to sit on the fringes. Come join us, I would say. This past Thanksgiving, for the Friendsgiving meal at my NYC apartment, the list of people coming started to amass and amass. My friend who was helping me cook at one point got so agitated that he said he would not be able to come. I had just boarded a flight going who knows where (my typical routine), and he asked if I had a minute to talk. He sounded strange and stressed on the phone. Continue reading Relationships with expiration dates

Whirlwind community

Week 2 in Jeju-do, South Korea has come and gone. The week was low on productivity and high in social and community activity. I have been feeling a bit burnt out from balancing a communal digital lifestyle with visiting guests and my personal goals.

The vibe here in Jeju has been jovial and warm. There are roughly 35 of us participating in a program called Hacker Paradise, a traveling community of “digital nomads” – freelancers, creatives, entrepreneurs, and other remote workers. At any given time, you can check Slack to see what people are eating, drinking, working on, and otherwise planning.This essentially serves as an open invitation for anyone to join. There is a fair bit of humor involved too – new emojis made, giphys shared, and lively banter (sometimes drunken, sometimes sober). I am personally part of a few different groups, including hiking, yoga, writing, music, saunas, drinks, working at cafes, waterfalls, sketching, and actually, quite a few more. Continue reading Whirlwind community

Week 1 in Jeju in photos

My week in Jeju.

1. Day1: Co-working, Korean classes, Korean food

Day 1 - Co-working, Korean, Food

2. Worked in a cat cafe before a Korean meetup with locals

3. Me sharing my plans and work during demos and reciprocity session

Me sharing at demos

4. FOOD

5. Hamdeok Beach

img_1392 img_1412

6. Hiking part of the Olle trail

olle-1

7. Wandering and bar hopping

jeju-city

Different sides of Jeju

Vertigo is physical and psychological. Fear of falling keeps us safe and holds us back. One distinct vertiginous memory takes me back to Jeju Island, the “Hawaii of Korea.” It was the early 1990s, my childhood pilgrimage to my ancestral country.

The Jeju of my memories was lush, green, virgin. We hiked up mountains, and at a certain point, while trekking to a waterfall, I had to tiptoe and jump from stone to stone across a river. I had never done that before, and I was exhilarated and dubious. Did people really do stuff like this or was I a real pioneer? It felt like I was breaking new ground, the champion of rock jumping. And as basic as it was, I was scared that I would be swept into the water and away. Some twisted part of me wanted it to happen.

My cousin was charged with taking us all around the country. Roughly a month of towing around two kids and my demanding mother. My current self feels grateful and horrified by the burden she had to carry.

A week ago, I landed back in Jeju-do. I have no family here (that I know of). Continue reading Different sides of Jeju