Category Archives: Travel

Fashion world immersion

September 10th already. I’ve been in London immersed in the fashion world for the past week helping to launch the fall collection for an emerging label for London Fashion Week.

Fabrics have swirled around me as dresses have come together, and I’ve been heads down for up to 16 hours a day costing garments, looking at patterns, setting prices, prepping for investor and buyer meetings, and creating line sheets in InDesign, among many other things. Multi-tasking while casting models for the Lookbook. Dressing and undressing some attitudinal and some nice models. Hair and makeup tests. Cigarettes on the roof. Stylists and set designers coming in. Meanwhile, the designer has come in and out sleeping 2-4 hours a night and jumping out for meetings with ambassadors, magazine editors, music people, and others. It is really a crazy world.

When I’ve had a chance to process, I’ll need to write a full debrief. It has been intense. Glamorous in a sense but also just intense.

I haven’t pulled a near-allnighter for work in a while and from an experiential point of view, that had some merit.

Mind-walking Friday night in London

7:30pm on a Friday night, and I found myself in a room full about 40 other people planted on yoga mats with bolsters underneath their legs, eyebags mounted atop eyes, blanketed underneath the head, blanketed on top as well. Wow, this is how London rolls. Or…I guess there are people in the world who choose to spend their Friday nights this way. I mean, every night at this point might as well be Friday night for me.

I was there for a class entitled “Yoga Nidra: How to Access Your Deepest, Wisest Self.” It had seemed good at the time when I’d handed over the 25 GBP. Continue reading Mind-walking Friday night in London

Stillness in London

Most people go to the Himalayas or a similar setting to sit still (I may still do that later!). I’ve chosen London. Like Pico Iyer discusses in this Ted Talk, he was somehow inexplicably drawn to Kyoto. After spending many years traveling and flitting around, he had a sort of revelation and moved to Kyoto. In a similar way, I am drawn to London. It gives me a sense of ease. My plan is to not really have a plan and sit here for up to 10 days, being alone, reflecting, reading, watching philosophical things, and cultivating a sense of mindfulness. Appreciating time and space. I relate to the notion that you have to be in the right frame of mind to travel. For these reasons, I’ve been traveling the world, not to see things and check things off the box but to really open myself up inside. I’ve been drawing energy from landscapes and friends.

Also, I’m doing something called the 3-day military diet. That’s for another post. Let’s see how that works. It sounds extreme, but I’m not doing it in that spirit. I find that when there’s less motion and stuff and generally more space, I really don’t need to eat as much. Usually, when I eat, it’s more to calm down my nervous system or because of some social situation.

4 hours in Trapani, Sicily

Departure day arrived. One of the Italian families wrapped up with the kids and nanny and left on a 6:20am ferry. We were the next to go at 9:55am. We agreed to meet the third group, leaving Marettimo at 11:50am, in Trapani for lunch before heading to the airport.

Trapani is a cute town and was at one point the heart of the trading network stretching from Carthage to Venice. We spent the first two hours walking through the Old Town and along the coast talking about life, progression, careers, love, self-improvement, and the ways we limit ourselves. Cuore a cuore, if that’s something people say in Italian.

Then we met up with the group at Osteria La Bettolaccia, one of these Italian slow food restaurants. It was…AMAZING. Last meal in Sicily.

Bufula mozzarella
Bufula mozzarella
Amazing seafood couscous
Amazing seafood couscous
Seafood and eggplant busiate
Seafood and eggplant busiate

 

 

Marettimo in Sicilia

Marettimo is one of the tiny Aegadian Islands off the northwest coast of Sicily. Population is 300 to 700 depending on the season, and the community thrives off fishing and, to some extent, tourism. This is neither international nor domestic tourism. Rather, these are mostly Sicilian tourists from the town of Trapani, about as local as it gets. It may be the first and last time in a century that people have seen an Asian person. I was happy to provide some entertainment.

From Palermo, I took a 1.5-hour bus ride from Central Station to Trapani, where I met my good friend Liuda, who had arrived from Rome. We then hopped on a 1.25-hour ferry ride to Marettimo, where her friends have a house. Continue reading Marettimo in Sicilia

18 hours in Palermo

As soon as I entered the Stansted Airport terminal, I was transported back in time and to another space – Italy. I wondered if only flights bound for Italy flew out of this terminal. The cafes advertised espressos and Italian snacks and sandwiches. We had already left the UK behind.

It was cold that morning, and it felt like winter was approaching. As I boarded my flight, I was further transported. Clothing circa the 1980s or early 1990s, if I’m being generous. I wondered if I was the only non-Italian (maybe non-Sicilian!) on the plane.

As the plane touched down in Palermo, there was a boisterous round of applause. We had not weathered any turbulence or faced any delays, so I wondered what that was all about. Then another round. Encore. And then a third?! Continue reading 18 hours in Palermo

Sleepless travel days

My internal European flights had to be paid for out-of-pocket (vs. miles). Woe is me (yes, sarcasm). I’m grateful that I’ve been able to travel around the world with minimal flight costs…now, the incidentals have been out of control on my wallet. I think I need to create a budget. Apparently, the consensus is that you can travel the world for $12K/year. This currently equates to my monthly expenditure even though I’m not paying for flights or accommodation. Yes, I need help and a reality check.

My behavioral observation is that when you’re saving so much in one arena, you believe you can spend more in another category. My bombastic-ness and tendency to do everything in extremes exacerbates the situation. Well, there’s time to adjust. No biggie.

London to Cologne

I trudged with many transfers by public transit to Stansted Airport in London. I had slept 4 hours and was massively hung over. I had stayed in bed for nearly the entirety of the day wondering why I do that to myself. With stone-like death stare, I dutifully followed the directions to the airport and ended up at the Germanwings counter, where the woman informed me that I had been upgraded to first class. My face was motionless. “Did you hear me?” she asked, smiling expectantly. Continue reading Sleepless travel days

My friends/family in Cologne

We have inner foundations. Some are stronger than others, and it is often formed by early childhood experiences. Some people will always feel “okay” at a base level even when weathering difficult and uncertain periods of life. They believe they will get through it and have a support system they know they can rely on. Others may have accumulated their millions and billions and yet feel that at any moment, they might become impoverished and end up living on the street. I am certainly in the latter category.

Part of why I’m roaming the earth alone and to see friends is to understand my place in this world. Where do I belong? Who do I know? What sorts of relationships do I have? Which do I want?

My time in Europe has been nourishing in that respect. Friends have shown me so much love and support without judgment, without asking for anything. It is really nice to be the person being taken care of for once, but it’s also a new feeling.

The open invitations to London, Germany, Sicily. Spa day. A simple takeaway dinner. Waking up at 5am after 3.5 hours of sleep and being willing to drive me 2 hours to the airport (which I of course said NO WAY to). Inviting me to just chill at the family house in Mallorca, basically indefinitely, to collect myself. All the information for my trip to Sicily. Helping me figure out where to go and what to do. Brainstorming with me about crossing the Alps and offering me gear and guidance. Patience. Listening. More than listening, making me feel heard.

Thank you for being better than friends. I feel much safer, and my foundation is a lot more solid because of you.

My time in Cologne, Germany

My Chelsea London nest

The heat wave in NYC was creating a meltdown. I was happy to fly across the Atlantic to London, a city of beauty, elegance, and history. It’s a city where I can breathe.

In times of transition and crisis, there are a few people I know I can turn to for nurturing, guidance, and unconditional support. My friend Ludmilla is one of these sage souls. A true Italian mamma, everything was prepared for me detoxification and rest when I arrived at her apartment – the “nest” – in Chelsea, one of London’s poshest neighborhoods. Continue reading My Chelsea London nest

New York, I love you from a distance

Now that I have some distance from you, I can see you more clearly. I don’t feel you in me grinding my bones. Metal on concrete on bone. People on people. Maybe you’ve changed. Maybe I’ve changed. Most likely, we have both changed.

The NYC of my youth was gritty, fun, wild, and lonely at times. Open. Hard but not devastating. The Village was still a neighborhood. Things had more character. The city felt personal.

When I was 16, I got my first fake ID in Times Square. “Julia H___” from Maryland, making good use of the “Spanish name” I insisted I had to my teachers in pre-school. It was a time before the biggest of billboards were up, and everything was shady as F. Continue reading New York, I love you from a distance

NYC eats and drinks

My NYC life mostly consists of hanging out with friends eating and drinking, sitting by myself eating, or going to Classpass and eating afterwards.

My favorite spots since I’ve been back (2 days):

    1. Little Branch (West Village): Beautiful and atmospheric 1920s style speakeasy with cozy booths and live (good!) jazz music. Go there to be transported.
    2. Minetta Tavern (West Village): One of my all-time favorite NYC restaurants. Everything from the signage outside to the woodsy ambiance is perfection. It’s intimate yet bustling, and the food is amazing – so well done. Bone marrow! Black label burger. No bad choices. A historic place, it opened in 1937 and has been frequented by Ernest Hemingway, Ezra Pound, Eugene O’Neill, and all sorts of writers. Also one of those transporting places.
    3. Favela Cubana (West Village): Delicious Brazilian-Cuban fusion on a tree-lined street. Not crowded – perfect for a mid-sized group. We got the Lechón (braised pulled pork shoulder, maduros, rice and beans), Feijoada (calabreza, pork, bacon, and skirt steak cooked in black beans with sauteed spinach, farfofa, and rice), and seafood paella. Also, gallons of yucca fries with green sauce. Yum.
    4. Soho Tiffin Junction (West Village): LOVE this place for a casual lunch. It’s sort of like a healthy Indian Chipotle with options like cauliflower rice for low-carbing, choice of curry, and lots of fresh veggies and toppings. You can order a small portion or a regular portion. My lunch was <$7!
    5. Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar (West Village): I love all the Blue Ribbon restaurants, not just for the amazing food and ambiance, but they somehow hire the nicest people. They could tell we had had too much to drink, so the kitchen sent out a pizza on the house! Great late night spot for drinks and food (or anytime spot, really). I will be back when I’m in a state to remember it better.
    6. Spotted Pig (West Village): A classic! Good bar scene and excellent gastropub food. We were there for the drinks this time.

Bad picture, but the BOMB ASS bone marrow at Minetta Tavern. Instructions – take the perfectly grilled and sliced piece of bread, apply onion marmalade generously, take a hunk of bone marrow, and enjoy. Party in yo mouth.

Minetta Tavern bone marrow
Minetta Tavern bone marrow

Jimbaroo! You only love me when you’re drunk

Bleary. Tired. I just got off an overnight flight from Bali to Guangzhou in China and will be heading back to NYC. Did not sleep. I thought the point of booking first class was to have a flatbed. For the past hour, I’ve been overindulging at the China Southern airport lounge. Many plates of eggs, bacon, and dumplings have been consumed. Also a giant bowl of wonton and noodle soup. No exaggeration. Giant.

Wonton noodle soup at Guangzhou airport

Mostly, I’ve been wondering how I lost my head and my heart in Bali. It happened so quickly. Earlier this month, I had left the Bukit peninsula with hurt feelings and my poor battered heart in my hands. I had stayed with an American surfer / furniture maker who had been living between Bali, CA, and Hawaii for the past 20 years. We met 4 years ago during my first trip to Bali and spent 24 hours together. When I came back to Bali earlier this month, we spent seven days straight together. Intense. Things got a bit tense between us during this period. Much was left unsaid. I felt like he hated me but wanted me at the same time. It was a mix of emotions, but when I left him and the Bukit a few weeks ago, I needed a lot of solitude and alone time to recharge and heal. I didn’t want to look back. I at least promised myself that I wouldn’t return to the Bukit unless it was on my terms and turf.

For my last two nights in Bali, I decided to return to the Bukit, this time in style. Continue reading Jimbaroo! You only love me when you’re drunk

Decompressing in Ubud

My day back in Ubud, the cultural center of Bali, yesterday:

  • 7am: Morning flow yoga at the Yoga Barn with about 50 other people
  • 9am: Green juice and fruit for breakfast
  • 11am: Rolling around in bed at Sarin Ubud Villas trying to get FaceTime to work
  • 12:30pm: Walking around rice fields
  • 2pm: Q-rak energy healing treatment – I still don’t know what happened
  • 3pm: Mahi mahi pumpkin pesto salad for lunch at Watercress
  • 5pm: More rolling around in bed reading lightly
  • 7pm: Ayurvedic massage – two women massaging 107 “marma points” in my body, which is defined as a site where flesh, veins, arteries, tendons, bones, and joints meet up
  • 8:30pm: Indian restaurant for a binge-fest dinner (my stomach is better!)
  • 9:30pm: Called Delta to cancel my flight to London (going back to NYC instead on Sunday)
  • 10pm: Texting with people
  • 11:30pm: Sleep
  • Overnight: Weirdest dreams ever

This basically encapsulates what it would like to live in Ubud. I think I could do this, except for the infuriating internet issues.

Looking out from my patio onto the rice fields
Looking out from my patio onto the rice fields